bedroom chair vintage

this video is brought to you by sailrite.visit sailrite.com for all your project supplies, tools and instructions.got an old chair with channeling? watch this video and learn how you can easily transforma channeled back chair with new decorative fabric from sailirte to give it an updatedstylish new look. this video tutorial was developed to show a beginner or upholsterenthusiast how to diy. why pay a professional to reupholster your old chair, do it yourselfand save! here’s cindi an expert seamstress and upholster to show you how it’s done. â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬â¬weare getting ready to start this little channeled back chair. and it is in really good condition,all the stuffing is still here. and i would

like to measure it right now and see whatyardage were going to need. we only need a width and length measurementbeing sure to include enough fabric for the sides and excess for stapling.the back is 27 high and i am not going to measure the width on that because it willjust take a whole width because of the channels. there is about 31 x 25.don’t forget extra fabric to make the piping. so the seat is 22 inches deep, so i know ineed 22 inches up the roll of the fabric. the back is 27 high and the outside back is25 high. we will have some scrap that can be used forpiping, but it is not a bad idea to add an extra yard to your calculations to cover thepiping and so you have a fudge factor.

so if i add those three together, i come upwith 74. divide that by 36 and you get just over 2 yards.also we will use a cambric duct cover for the bottom of the chair, that will take lessthan a yard. so, for this chair we need 3 yards of decorativefabric from sailrite and 1 yard of cambric dust cover fabric from sailrite.so we are going to start by taking off the dust cover underneath. using needle nose pliersor a wire cutters, as shown here, is helpful for this job.and i can already see we have a broken spring right here, that we are going to have to repair.we highly recommend the tack and staple remover for upholstery jobs like this. you can getit from sailrite. this chair is old enough

that it was done with nails, and it’s beenrecovered once, at least. the tack & staple remover tool comes withthe upholstery tool kit from sailrite. we have the outside back completely off andwe need to take this batting off. and save it because we will want to put it back onwhen we are finished. and all of this batting comes out, but saveit also. now there is cording on this, that’s thenext thing to come off the back and then we will do the inside back.now that we have the outside back off i am working on the inside back. one thing i wantto remember, is there is a seam right here. and it is only there probably because theycut the fabric a little too short. i do not

want a seam right there when i put it backtogether. this piece is also attached right here. thatis the inside back! remove the piping at the bottom of the chairand then the chairs decorative fabric covering the seat. i have the back mostly released.i am going to go around and hammer some of these in so i do not cut myself on the nailsor staples that are still left in there. before i pull this all the way off. you cansee how they tightened up the back of the seat by putting just one or two nails justright in here. so, when we put it back together that’s probably a good idea. and there isthe seat! it is always a good idea to check out thefoam, springs, and strapping of the seat bottom

before moving on, we will do that now.this is original to the chair and if it is possible to keep it there i certainly would.it is a really nice batting, keeps you from felling the springs. and it is not somethingthat we can buy anymore. i am lifting this up so i can see if and make sure that thereare no springs pocking through here, because this is the time to repair that, if they doneed to be repaired. this piece right here is called an edge roll. it keeps the woodfrom being felt on the edge of the chair. if you’re padding or foam needs replacedor firmed, up consider buying new foam from sailrite.i am going to tear some of these strips off they are rotted anyways and see what is goingon with this spring right here. if it just

needs to be tucked back in somewhere and thenreplace these. i am going to tack these back down in, lookslike they loosened up a little bit over time. looks like this center spring is broken, butit has just come loose. so, since we took the webbing out in there, we can see thatit was not broken. and we do not want to take this apart any further than we have to andend up having to tie up all the springs. i can see that, and what happened is this cameunhooked from this strapping. so, i am going to re-web it here and here and attach thespring back. and see how strong that looks and i might string some more webbing throughit after i get the center done. we are using a polypropylene webbing fromsailrite, but you could purchase the jute

webbing from sailrite, it is a more traditionalwebbing used in upholstery. throughout this video we will be using thetc-08 staple gun from sailrite, this is a long nose stapler here, but we also sell ashort nose version which will save you a little more money. these staple guns work great andare very reasonably priced at sailrite. and i want to keep this springs above thewebbing. i want to pull this really tight!the short nose stapler and staples are also included in the upholstery tool kit.usually for most upholstery applications a 3/8” length staple is best and since thisis an indoor application galvanized staples are fine.and then i am going to go, i am going to put

two across here because this strap is in theway. so, to stay on either side of that strap is what i want to do.if you are interested in the upholstery tool kit from sailrite here is a quick view ofwhat you will get in that kit. even though this webbing is fairly decent,its old, so i am going to run another one through the front, because that is what isgoing to take the most wear on the chair, is the front.now i notice that the chair has been, these straps were tied to the springs which is whatkeep the springs in place on the bottom. so, i am going to take the twine and a curvedneedle and just go around again and reattach the springs to the webbing. and this willall be covered up after we put the dust cover

on. so, it does not have to be beautiful.i am trying to catch the springs where ever i can and attach the webbing to the spring.i know you can’t see it but right there is the spring, underneath so i have caughtit with the twine and right here is another piece of spring. so, i am going to go throughthose layers of webbing and just attach it together.i have gone all the way around and attached… actually i need to go back in the center anddo the center one that was loose. a couple more times and then i will tie it off andcut my threads. when i tie it off i just do one loop throughput my needle in the loop and pull it down tight and that tightens it up right next tothe webbing.

you can tie it off to an adjacent leg if youlike also. now that i have the bottom all secured i amgoing to put this back in place and get ready to cut my seat fabric. now if we look at thefabric that we have chosen, since it is a stripe, we want to look at it and see if thereis anything that is predominate that we want in the center of the seat. and this red stripelooks predominate to me, so i am going to make this the center of my seat. i am goingto put a pin to mark the center. and i am not going to cut any of these cutshere, i am going to do that as i put it on the chair. so, i am just going to cut a bigrectangle right now. right now i am just placing this on the seatand making sure i have enough fabric on all

sides and that my center line is in the center.i will take a tape measure and measure probably from here to here and make sure i am in thecenter. the other way you can check that is to look at your strips and make sure thatyour stripes are balanced on each side. the width of my legs is 18.5 inches, so i wantthe center to be 9.25 inches. and i can do the same thing back here. start by securingit in just a few places in the front. and make sure everything is still straight.and snug it down in the back. and now i am going to put a couple on each side.now i can take my pin out. i am ready to get the front corner in place. what i want todo is pull the fabric this way first, so that this line stays consistent across the sideof the chair. and i am just going put a couple

of staples in there. and this will pull downtowards the front of the chair. and keep everything lined up with our stripe.when we put this cording on, this is going to come up around here and cover up thosestaples. this is the old cording we will be makingnew cording for the area a little later on in the video. i am just cutting up right alongthe edge of the wood on the leg. i am just going to trim some of this off the back. andthen pull the rest of this underneath. and i am going to do the same thing over here.i am going to cut right up along the edge of the leg. until i get to the base of thechair and pull that under also. and i will

trim this off after i get the rest of theback done. and i am going to do the same thing on this side, pull it around to the frontso that my stripes stays level. this is the little cut that goes along thispart of the leg to pull it tight back here. so i am going to cut along this piece of theframe. almost up to the wood. but i want to cut it and test it and cut it and test it.so i do not cut it too far. that is as far as i want to cut that pieceit fits good around the wood there and it is going to be covered up by the back whenwe put the inside back on. so before i staple anything there i am going to get the restof this fitted. so now i am going to cut along this line of the wood. this piece right hereis the cut that was on the original piece

right here.because there is a big open area right here, we want this fabric to slide down underneaththere and be pulled to the back. the outside back is going to come down along here. soyou can see how those two little cuts made that all fit in there really easily. beforei put too many staples in that i am going to come over here and do the other side.i think i am going to stop cutting there and start stapling. the back panel will come downand cover up any fullness there, but i think i got it in place so the back panel will coverup anything else. you can see when i pull down and back everything straightens out.and my outside back is going to come down along this line and go underneath the chair,so all this back here is going to be covered

up.i am just going to put a couple staples in this piece that we left here that is goingto keep the seat tight back there but again the back is going to come up against that.and before i do this one, i want to pull all this around tight like i did on the otherside. i want this to go around the leg back hereso i am going to cut up along the leg again. and the seat is on.ok, we are going to work on the inside back next and it has these channels in it and thoseare sewn in. so we have to take them out in order to get these out and have a patternfor a new piece. i have the stitching taken apart on this sideand you can see that it is stitched again

right here and this is a completely separatepiece. so, i am going to take it out and lay it off to the side and when i take these outi am going to lay them all in order because they are not the same size. the center willbe longer than the side will be and i want to be sure i put them back in the way theycame out. so then you just have to keep taking all thesechannels out and lay them in order so you can put them back the same way.so here is what this looks like now that we have torn it apart. we do need to add a stretcheronto the bottom of it. we don’t want to have a seam right here, so i am going to leavethat, um, pinned together. because i want to cut that all in one piece, from here out.each of these seams line up with these seams

when you put it back together. and you startat one end and sew here and then here and then here all the way across. so you haveall your channels made. if my fabric was solid instead of a stripei could cut this all in one piece and just mark these lines with a pencil or somethinga marker. but since we have the stripe i want the stripe to be centered on each one of thesechannels. so i am going to cut these separate pieces and put them together so the stripeis centered. i could measure these channels if they werestraight, but up here you can see there is a curve that needs to go around the cornerof the chair frame. so, i am actually going to cut them apart and use these pieces asmy pattern rather than measuring.

and i actually only have to cut half of itapart. so, i am going to cut, i have one, two, three, four, five… so this is the center,i am going to cut this half apart and make this half a mirror image when i put it backtogether. i am going to make these, this is the centerand this is the top. so, this is one, two, three and this is the top of all of them,so i get the curves in the right place when i put them back together. here is the stripethat i used for the center, so i want to make i use the same stripe on the center of thesepieces, so i am going to mark that right there. lay that so it is centered on this piece.i am ready to cut my first piece and i put a few pins all the way around i am going tocut this along the edge of the fabric where

the seam needs to be. but when i cut out herei am going to cut bigger so i have plenty to work with when i pull it around the sideof the chair. so any side that was seamed together withanother panel should be cut along the raw edge, but any side that is pulled and stapledcan be cut larger to aid in tensioning when applying to the chair.and i am going to number this one on the back, just lightly with a pencil. so that i knowwhich one it is and i am going to do it at the bottom so it is never going to show. andthen i want to take this one and lay it over right sides together and cut the same thingbecause it will mirror image on the other side on the back of the chair.i am also going to put a pin on this one too

designate the right side. so, i going to lookagain at the center that i used on the seat and mark the same line over here… whichwould be right here. and then i have piece number 2 and this isthe top. so this one i also want to cut along the edges,because it gets seamed on both sides, it makes a full channel in the center of the chair.so, i am going to cut it the same size as the original.this one is number 2 and i need to turn it over and cut another one just like it on thesame pattern. we have skipped ahead and here they all arecut out. so here is my 6 pieces each one is a mirrorimage of the other one and i am not going

to sew these all together. i am going to sewthem to the backing piece and that’s going to hold them all together. so i am going tostart on one end and work my way across this piece. this piece does not have any big holesin it, it is still in pretty good shape, so we are going to reuse it. if you did needto make a new piece for this, you can cut some sort of twill heavier fabric and drawlines where these seams are. you don’t have to do this in separate pieces. you can justdraw lines and stitch on the lines you just drew. but since ours is in pretty good shapewe are just going to reuse it. so, i am going to put these two pieces rightsides together. and i am going to stitch them to this seam. i do want my edges to be fairlyeven when i do this.

it is important to pin these sections togetherprior to sewing. so you can see that i have made a little pocketfor the outside piece of batting to go into. and then when i bring this one over, i willmake the pocket for the second one. now i am going to stitch this channel in andi have the back and two of the front pieces. cindi did not hold the trailing threads beforecreating her first stitch or two, so they were pulled under the assembly and got caughtor tangled up. no, problem, but it is always recommended to hold trailing threads priorto sewing a few stitches on most heavy duty sewing machines.i am stitching on the original line that was there, so that my channels are the same sizethey were originally.

and i am going to stitch all the way to theend of this. now i am going to flip this over and lay thisnext piece over top of it right sides together. and stitch these two to this seam. i don’twant to catch in all this other stuff, so i am going to fold it back.so i have two layers of fabric and the two layers of the backing.if i had to replace this and there was not a seam here, i would just be following theline. and i would even be sewing it a little differently. i would be sewing it flat likethis with the line under here and stitching right here. but i would not have to fold itall back to get it out of the way. and i am just going to keep doing the samething until i get all the way across.

we have skipped ahead, all the channels arenow sewn in. i am going to leave this edge open so thati can form this around the corner of the chair the way i want to. and here is what we havecreated. the channels for the cotton batting to go back into. so, i have both ends open,this is the top where the curve is and this is the bottom. this is what it looks likeon the front. and i am going to add a stretcher onto thebottom so i have plenty of fabric to pull down when i get it on the chair. we will cutsome scrap fabric for the fabric pull or stretcher as cindi calls it.this is the piece i am going to use as the stretcher on the bottom, it will never beseen. the seam down here will not be seen.

it will be tucked under the chair, the backwhen we get it on there. when i add this on i am going to put tucks in it, just like thatas i sew, every three to four inches. which lets this piece that you are pulling aroundin the chair take the curve. i may end up trimming some of this off, buti would rather have some to work with rather than not have it there.the sailrite ultrafeed ls-1 walking foot sewing is a great canvas and upholstery sewing machine,it is heavy duty and is also portable. it is being used with the ultrafeed collapsiblesewing table. get yours today at www.sailrite.com when i get all the way across this it willlook like i added a little skirt to the bottom. a second scrap piece of fabric is requiredto go the full length. coming up next we will

show a very simple way of stuffing the channels.i am going to cut a piece of this silk film to go around my cotton so it will slide intothe channel easier. and this is two layers so i am going to open it up. this will notmake any noise so we can leave it inside the chair when we get finished with it.to stuff channels usually professionals use what is called “upholstery channel tins”they are rather expensive and for the occasional do it yourselfer a tool that seldom sees useexcept when channels are required. and this tube goes in this channel, i stillhave all of these to do. this one is the end and we will not put that in until we put iton the chair. and then this one goes here, this one goes here, and this is the otherside. all these little pieces we will put

in when we get ready to staple the chair downand that everything is stuffed nicely. so, instead of using the upholstery channeltins lets show you this little trick which will save you money and we believe it is alsoa much easier method to employ. by using a shop vac with the hose end up againstthe stuffing the silk film creates a temporary vacuum tube, compressing the stuffing to almosthalf its size. this makes it easy to insert in the channels.when i put these in i want them to be about the same length all the way across and leavesome at the top so you have this fabric to pull over the top of the chair.here is what it looks like with two of our channels instead and we have two more to insert.we are using the cotton batting that we took

out of the chair, but you could use polyesterbatting for the stuffing if you needed to replace it. here you can easily see the stuffingcompressing using our silk film method. there is the third channel. one more to go.after i get them in place where i want them. make sure they are all about even at the topand even at the bottom. then i can cut this extra film off. there is the four channelsfilled. and we will fill the ends when we put it back on the chair.before we start to put this piece on, we want to measure the center which someone has alreadydone. but i am just going to go from where that wood connects to where that wood connects.and then bring this seam in the front piece back so i know that it is centered. and iam just going to start by putting one tack

right there to hold it in place while i workwith it. and i also want to make sure that the bottom is centered and i use that stripeas my center so i want this seam to come down and end up at that stripe.this piece of cotton batting has to go in out here, so i have to kind of keep that inmind as i am working with these and make sure that they are over far enough to fit thisback in. there is a piece of the wood frame right inhere that this stretch needs to go around. so i am going to start clipping that untili get that to go around nicely. you can see that i have got spots here thatneed to be filled. that’s what all these little pieces are for. they go back in thereto fill out those spots. so i am going to

stuff that first before i start stapling anything.and i do that from the back. this area will all get filled in with batting to hold allof this in. i put a few staples in there to hold thatin place while i stuff it. you can see how that cotton batting fillsout that space that you end up with when you first put it on.i am going to open this up and tack this part of the base down to hold it in place and startworking on this side also. there is a spot right there that i am havingtrouble getting batting into, so i am just going to have keep pushing from the back tilli get it where i want it and get that little spot right there and get that filled out.cutting slits in the fabric that relieves

the fabric that is going around the wood framemay also improve the way it looks. i am cutting some of this batting to lay uphere on this wood so we do not have such a sharp edge along the wood. to soften thata little bit. the first staple that cindi used when attachingthis needs to be removed so the fabric can be tensioned appropriately, that is not uncommonwith first tack staple. i am going to start pulling this side around here and ido not want to pull it too tight because it will want to pull this seam out. but i dowant to be snug and smooth. i am going to start in the center and work my way up towardsthe top and down to the bottom.

i want this line in the stripe of the fabricto stay straight and even along this edge. my outside back piece is going to come downalong here so anything that is under here is not going to show.i am just going to start tucking this around the corner.there is no rules, just what looks nice. i cut my stretcher to go around this pieceof the frame that is back here, so i am going to tuck these down in towards the back andtowards the sides. now repeat those steps for the other side.i am going to go ahead and finish tacking the bottom down, that i have not tacked downyet. so it will stay in place when i try in fill in those gaps in the front.i am going to use the white batting because

i am not going to have enough of the cottonthat come out of it, i want to fill it in a little bit more and this will work.must have more loft to it, because it is actually working better than the old cotton.see how those gaps are getting filled in with the polyester batting. now you can trim someof this extra off and get it out of your way. i am going to trim up this back leg so i canfinish pulling this underneath and this to the back.and all of this will be covered with our outside back.once this is done we can move on. we will be installing the outside back panel next,but before we do that we need to make piping or sometimes referred to as cording.and all of this will be covered with our outside

back.i am going to go ahead and cut the outside back before i cut my pieces for my cordingto make sure that i keep enough for this back piece and i do not cut it all up. so hereis my pin that was the center on the other pieces. so i am going to use the center againon the outside back. now i am just going to fold it in half onmy center line and cut the other half of the piece.the next thing we need to do is apply the piping that was orginailly on this aroundthe back edge. and because it is a curve i am going to cut my piping on the bias so itgoes around this curve nicely and that it also will not ravel.to cut it on the bias i am going to fold this

up at a 45 degree angle and make my firstcut right here. and then i cut my cording 1 â¾ inches wide.here we are using the clear acrylic ruler a rotary cutter and a cutting mat all availablefrom sailrite. these three tools make the job of making cording easy and are highlyrecommended. these tools and a lot more great tools are available in the upholstery toolkit from www.sailrite.com and i am only folding this up so that it willstill fit on the mat. now when i seam this together i want it tomake one big long strip and on this fabric i want the strips to all to be going the samedirection from one strip to the next. so, i am going to turn this top one over and justlay it on there and then when i sew i am going

to sew from that angle to this angle.and that will give me a strip with the stripes all going in the same direction and the seamon an angle so it is not so bulky. and you are just turning it over and layingright sides together. now i am ready to stitch this and add the cording. i am going to stitchmy cording seams together from the angle to the angle.and clip them apart then you have one big long strip. then i am just going to lay thecording in the middle of it and wrap it around. there is a tunnel in the foot that is goingto carry the cording as i sew. and the machine will do the work for you.when i get to the seam i am just going to open it up and flatten it out so it is notso bulky there. that is also why i did the

seam on the bias because it spreads the bulkout along the seam along the seam instead of laying it on top of itself.now i am ready to apply the piping up around the back of the chair. and i want this tobe right along the edge of the wood. when i put these staples in they don’t haveto be right up next to my stitching because i am going to use the flexible metal tackstrip to go along the whole edge to apply the fabric to the back. and this is why iwant to use bias cording because of this curve, the bias will take this curve much nicer thana straight cording will. and here also i can just feel the edge ofthe wood right here, so i am going to run the cording right down along the edge of thatwood.

so that is the cording applied all the wayaround the back of the chair. if you remember when we took the chair apartthis was all stuffed with batting which keeps the front nice and firm. so, i am going toput all that back in. and this piece covered it all.i think i am going to change this and use the polyester batting because it is smootherthan this and toss this piece. it will make the back look smoother when it is finished.this does not have to go all the way to the edges, it is just to cover up all of thosebumps underneath. there hopefully it will not be quite so dangerousthat way. i am going to apply this flexible metal tack strip about a half inch away fromthe stitching on my piping. and each hole

on the edge gets on leg of the staple in it.the flexible metal tack strip is great for upholstery applications where fabric panelsneed to go smoothly around corners, or straight a ways, a nd a finished edge is required.i am going to end this where the break is in the two pronged pieces. use a wire cutterto cut the flexible metal tack strip. before we lay the fabric on here i am goingto start to tap these down a little bit so they are partially down before i try to pullthe fabric around them. the raw hide upholstery hammer comes in theupholstery tool kit. i going to measure the center between thelegs here so i get my stripes centered on this piece also.so there is my mark right there, i want my

center of my strip to be right there. i wantmy center of my stripe to be right there i am going to put one staple to hold that inplace and make sure i have enough fabric in all the other areas of the chair.cindi will tack down the bottom edge with the stapler.here she is working at the top edge of the chair.i am pushing this down into the edge of the flexible metal track strip. my cording ishere and the tack strip is underneath. as the tack strip is pushed down when we hammerit down, it’s going to tighten all this up.use your fingers and press the fabric up against the small teeth of the flexible metal tackstrip.

and all this extra fabric gets trimmed outof here. it is wise after positioning the fabric along one edge (this is the top edge)to cut away the excess fabric before pushing the flange of the tack strip down more.so, i am going to go all the way around and get it secured like that and then go backand finish putting the edge down. you can just use your fingers to pull thatup onto those little prongs. you can actually use your fingers to startpressing it down before you use the hammer. cindi has not yet hammered it completely downanywhere, first she will insure that the fabric panel fits snug on all three sides with theprongs bent or hammered almost completely. when she is satisfied she will then hammerit down completely all three sides giving

it a very nice finished look including thecurved corners. this fabric is a little bit light weight iactually like using my fingers to get it started better, because that way i have to hit itless times with the hammer. i do not want that piece of metal to go through the edgeof my fabric. now she is satisfied and she will hammer itdown all the way completing the finished look to all sides and at the corners.at the bottom of the chair she will finish off stapling there and cut around the legs.now i can trim the back around the back legs. then it will be ready to put cording aroundthe bottom of the chair. i am going to use this cardboard tack stripto secure the cording to the chair, so i am

going to cut it in pieces so that it stopsand starts. so i want the edge of my cording to be up against the edge of my wood.the cardboard tack strip comes in the upholstery tool kit.and the edge of my tack strip right up next to the stitching on the cording. when youwant the tack strip to go around a curve, just cut little strips in it and it will curve.now i am going to trim this off, even with the bottom of the chair and put a couple staplesright here. and then i am going to trim the cording off so that it will lay right overthe top of it and put some hot glue on it to hold it in place.so i am going to cut the cording right up close to the stitching. i am not cutting thestitching. cut that little piece out. and

i can use hot glue to lay that right up ontop of that edge of the back chair fabric. there is a groove in the wood on the leg ofthe chair that i want to run my cording in as i go around the front. so i am going tostaple right up next to that groove. and i am going to trim the seam off the cordingagain, so i can hot glue that down. now we are ready to join the back edges together,so i am going to cut them off so they overlap about 3 inches. and undue the stitch on oneend of my cording. and cut off this extra cord right next to the edge of the other one.then turn this at an angle, so it is not so bulky and tuck this one inside it. and finishstapling. i am going to cut the dust cover for the bottomof the chair so i am going to do just a rough

measurement. it is 23 x 23. now when i putthis dust cover on i am going to fold under the edge so that it is finished on the edgenice and neat. put a few staples in the front. then go to the back. and put a few back here.then i am going to put a few in each side and cut around the legs.now i am going to cut around the legs. i am just going to cut right down the center ofthis leg. and turn all that inside. on the back legs i am going to cut down bothsides to go around the leg. the channeled back chair project is now completeand it looks great! this is a great do it yourself project for anyone who has a littlebit of a diy spirit. we are all finished with our channel backchair. thanks cindi!

coming up next is the materials list and thetools that we used throughout this project. you will find hundreds of great indoor decorativefabric that will work great for chairs like this at sailrite. if you have questions aboutour products or fabrics be sure to give us a call. notice that most of the tools we usedare included in the upholstery tool kit from sailrite.to see more great upholstery make over videos click on a video snapshot here!for more free videos like this be sure to check out the sailrite website or subscribeto the sailrite youtube channel. it’s your loyal patronage to sailrite that makes thesefree videos available, thanks for your loyal support! i’m eric grant and from all ofus here at sailrite, thanks for watching!

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