KITCHEN ISLAND IDEAS ON WHEELS
hi everyone, i'm marie from diy montreal and today i'm going to show you how to build this four sided walk-in closet island it has two sides with open shelving for shoes and two sides with a barn door like this all of the four sides have adjustable shelves so you can set the height that you want i mean all of the sliding barn door hardware myself and i'll show you how to do that if you're interested in building one for yourself be sure to check the description below. you'll find a link to the detailed plans so let's get started. and if you have any questions, just let me know in the comments below like most projects this build started with a trip to the lumber store
i used two sheets of maple plywood for the cabinet but this was before i upgraded my table saw so i took the easy route and had all my pieces cut at the store i just handed the guy the cutting diagram from the plans and he had it all cut in under ten minutes when you're all done you'll have 24 pieces of plywood i started by marking out where i would make my pocket holes, but before making the pocket holes i wanted to first add the shelf pin holes that will be used for the adjustable shelves to make the holes. i used a simple jig you just clamp the jig flush to one edge and drill your holes with a provided bit once you reach the end slide it over and reposition it with a provided pin and keep going
repeat this on the opposite side making sure to start from the same edge. so your holes are aligned next i grab my new pocket hole jig and pre-drilled all of the pocket holes all these details are mapped out in the detail plans again check in the description below if you're interested in making this build for yourself. i also need to pre-cut the slots for these zed clips i'm going to use to attach the table top i wasn't sure how to measure the distance that wish to cut the slots. so this is the best i could come up with. i transferred that measurement onto my workpiece and use my palm router with a spiral bit to make the rooves about one inch long i didn't think of it at the time but using a biscuit joiner to make these slots would be even better when i finished making all the pocket holes pin holes and grooves
i gave all the panels a light sanding before moving on to assembly. i lined up the panels and clamp them together before driving in the pocket screws once all my panels were assembled. i set them on to the plywood cabinet base and made sure to line up all the edges so they were flush with the base on all sides. i then attached it with pocket screws starting from the outside corners and working my way in next i slipped in the inside divider with the help of a mallet and lined it up with some markings i had drawn on the inside face of the vertical panels okay, so here's what the cabinet looks like so far next i'm going to dress it up with some face framing and add a small base kind of like a toe kick underneath it
to make the toe kick i made some pocket holes on the ends of the boards and also pre drilled some holes that i'll use later to attach the toe kick to the base after clamping together the frame i made sure to check for square and then drove in all the screws to attach the toe kick i flip the cabinet on to its side and then added some wood to prop it up by one inch and centered it leaving about an inch on each side. i used some clamps to help hold it in place while i drove in the screws a word of advice this thing gets heavy and cumbersome. i moved it into the room
it would be living in after i painted the base and then i finished adding the top shelves and doors after i'd moved it next i wanted to dress it up and hide the cut edges of the plywood. i used some finished pine that i attached using a bit of glue and some brad nails. i then did the opposite side than the bottom always making sure that the edges were flush with the inside face of the cabinet i then repeated this all the way around the four sides kind of like a puzzle always referencing off the adjoining face to minimize the gaps and get a snug fit i did the same thing for each of the long shelves applying a beautiful and securing it with brad nails and
there are my six assembled shells next i moved on to the doors by this point i had my new saw and making cuts was a breeze i trimmed down some quarter-inch plywood to size and then added some pieces to frame it started by gluing down the pieces and holding them in place with some spring clamps so i could flip over the door and add some brad nails in from the back i'm adding a diagonal decorative piece to the doors to figure out the angle i simply laid the board on top and lined up the corners then i just used a ruler and i balled it. i
progressively adjusted my miter saw until the angle seemed right and made the cut i had to make a few minor tweaks, but in the end i got a perfect fit did i mention this was the first time i ever do this? just as before i added some glue clamped it and nailed it in from the back before moving on to paint i filled all the cracks using dry decks a spackling that goes on pink and dries white. i also made sure to fill in all the nail holes once dry sanded everything down until smooth using 220 grit sandpaper and vacuumed up all the dusts before doing a test-fit i'm using an amal type paint that's a bit more resistant than regular paint. i
diluted it a bit. so i would get a nice smooth finish with my sprayer having a spray gun really makes painting so much faster. i put on a coat on all four sides in under 20 minutes i applied three coats and all lightly sanding with 320 grit sandpaper in between each coat okay, we're not quite done yet next i moved on to the tabletop that i'm making out of two by sixes i started by cutting the three boards in half now even though this is finished pine. i found that some of the board's had warped and there were gaps in between the joints i wasn't too happy with this. so i decided to mill the lumber again. i first ran it flat on the jointer then did the edges and
finally ran them all through the planer to assemble the board's i only use glue i spread on a generous amount and clamp them together also made sure to wipe off all the excess squeezed out using a wet paper towel while the glue is still moist once dry i sanded with 80-grit to get off the remaining glue then moved up to 120 grit and finally 180 grit i'm going to cut off each end of the table to square up the tabletop. i used a t-square to mark the first edge then clamped a guide to the table and use my circular saw to trim the edge. i then measured 34 and a half inches on the other side and repeated the process to soften the edges i'm using a roundover bid going once around the top edge in a counterclockwise direction
i'm trying out a new finish. i've never used before wipe-on poly. i love the idea that you can just wipe it on with a clean rag it kind of penetrates like oil while giving you the protection of atla varnish. i lightly sanded using 320 grit paper in between coats and applied three coats and all okay, the last part of this build is the barn door hardware i bought some 1 inch aluminum flat bar that i cut down to lengths using a hacksaw fyi. i'm following a tutorial from chanita sheet on how to make this custom hardware i'll leave a link down below that explains the whole process if you want to check that out instead of buying nylon spacers like they recommend i decided to make my own using some dowel
thank goodness for my drill, press table otherwise drilling this wall would have been quite the challenge if you don't have this setup find a way to clamp down the piece so it doesn't get stuck on your drill bit i'll be painting these black - to mount the barn door hardware again, i'm following shanty to sheikhs tutorial by marking one end drilling a pilot hole and mounting the bar with the spacer and a hex screw. i then use a level to mark the second hole and repeat for the actual hardware that goes on the door i used a three quarter inch hex bolt. i added a washer
then the nylon wheel and two more washers before attaching the lock nut in retrospect painting the washers and the wheel may not have been the best idea because they kind of stick a little so maybe you skip that part i propped up the door on some wood to get it to the right height then simply marked out where the hardware should sit i'm using self drilling metal screws to attach the hardware to the doors but again, not sure this was the best idea given the glossy paint that i used even though i let the paint dry 24 hours the metal shards are sticking to it not to mention fingerprints
matte black paint me have been a better option or even better pre drilling these holes that's it just hang the door and you have a custom sliding barn door last but not least i dropped on the tabletop and made sure it was centered from all sides then i grabbed some said clips and mounted them in the small slots. i had pre-cut you may notice i made a lot more slots than i needed. since i wasn't exactly sure how this was going to work out i only needed the ones in the front on the sides here and i didn't use the ones in the back so that completes this build if you want to build one for yourself be sure to check out the link to the plans in the description below and if you like this video please give it a thumbs up and be sure to leave me your comments or questions below
thanks for watching until next time. see you soon
