KITCHEN BACKSPLASH IDEAS LOWES
we're working on renovating this bathroomand right now it's time to start on the new tile floor. it's definitely one of the moreadvanced projects, but you can do it. in this video we'll show you how to prep the floor.after you've prepped, watch how to install a tile floor at lowes.com/howto. getting the subfloor ready is the most importantpart of the job because if you don't do it right the floor could crack. now a tile floorcan be installed several ways. whatever you do, just be sure to follow your local codesand your manufacturer's directions. to give you an idea of our installation, here'swhat we'll do: after we take out the old floor, we'll applyunmodified mortar to the existing concrete
mortar bed. then we'll put down this schluterditra uncoupling membrane; a layer of unmodified thinset; our tile; grout; and sealer. now keep in mind that this install is notthe same as tiling a shower or tub. before you get started, figure out how muchnew tile you'll need. multiply the length times the width and add 10% for extra. ifyou special order your tile, you can schedule your project for when your tile order willbe ready. now it's time to remove the old flooring.start by taking out the toilet, vanity, and any trim that might be in the way. oh, andplug the sewer pipe with a rag to keep sewer gas from leaking into the room.
if you're removing tile like we are, it'sa really good idea to mask off the doorway and open a window. i'm not going to lie—removingtile gets really dusty. ok, take a hammer and give the old tile a whack. after you'vebroken some up, use a hammer and chisel to remove the tile. once the tile is gone, use a floor scraperto remove the old thinset. as you can see, our bathroom has a mortarbed. this is common in homes built before 1950, like ours. you can repair minor cracksand tile over it like we are, but if it has major damage you'll have to remove it. yoursubfloor has to be in good condition, uniform, proper thickness, dry, clear of any residue,and level. if it isn't level, just fill the
low spots with a leveling compound. there's been a big change in this room. asyou can see we're also working on replacing our tile walls. you can find the video forthis process at our website. all right, well now it's time to put down the schluter ditra.this stuff is pretty cool. it's a flexible membrane that allows for expansion under thetile, but it also gives us a strong foundation and helps protect the subfloor underneath. so to begin installing this membrane, startin a corner and roll it out across the floor. cut it at the wall and that's the first piece.go ahead and cut all your pieces. if you have to cut around pipes, just usea utility knife.
it's also a good idea to mark the edges ofeach run to know where to spread your thinset. once all the pieces are cut and in place,be sure to mark numbers on each piece as well as corresponding numbers on the floor. if you have doorjambs and doors, stack a floortile on a piece of the membrane against the trim. use a jamb saw to cut it about 1/16of an inch above the stack, and cut doors about 1/8 of an inch above the stack. next, you'll need to mix unmodified thinsetmortar. mix it fairly loose, but not so thin that the ridges fall down when it's appliedwith a trowel. use a 14-in by 3/16-in v-notched trowel. apply a thin layer of mortar to thesubstrate with the flat side to produce solid
contact with the surface. then comb the mortarusing the notched side. roll the membrane over the floor, fleece sidedown, and solidly embed it in the mortar using a wood float. pull back a corner of the membraneto check that you're getting full coverage. you should see half of the mortar on the floorand half on the fleece. continue laying the ditra, keeping the pieces tight against eachother. to make the floor completely waterproof, installkerdi-band on the seams and corners. use unmodified thinset mortar with the same trowel, makingsure there's at least a 2-in overlap at all seams. we're really making progress on this bathroomand we're almost done with prepping the floor.
we just need to make some reference linesfor the new tile. mark the center of two opposite walls andsnap a chalkline. spraying hairspray works well to hold the chalk on the membrane. dothe same on the other two walls to form a cross, and check that it's square. loose laythe tile along the lines, using the spacers for accuracy. leave about 1/4-in between theperimeter tiles and walls for expansion. if the layout gives you thin cuts on the sides,adjust it to get a wider cut, and mark new reference lines. now you can pick up the tiles. well, our lines are set so now it's time tostart laying some tile. check out the rest of this project at lowes.com/howto.